Africa’s Top Designers Offer A Feast For The Senses Through Fashion, Flavour And Heritage

Now a firm fixture on Cape Town’s cultural calendar, the third edition of Confections x Collections (CxC) was, once again, hosted this November by Mount Nelson, A Belmond Hotel. This annual five-day showcase brought together slow African fashion through intimate salon-style shows curated by Twyg and bespoke confectioneries inspired by each designer, fusing the Afternoon Tea tradition with Cape Town’s brimming creative community.

This year’s CxC saw four solo designer capsules grace The Nellie’s lounge and gardens, where garments brought African heritage to life through contemporary styles. Two South African designers led the line-up, including Rich Mnisi, a label celebrated for its bold expression of dualities, and 2023 Amiri Prize winner Lukhanyo Mdingi, showcasing his work on African soil for the first time in seven years. Joining them for their first showcase in South Africa were two Nigerian designers: Adeju Thompson of Lagos Space Programme, the 2023 International Woolmark Prize winner, and globally acclaimed fibre artist Bubu Ogisi of IAMISIGO.

This distinguished class of fashion designers wove a common thread of reframing African heritage, celebrating a culture of creativity, and championing continental inclusivity, all while engaging guests in intimate conversations led by Master of Ceremonies, Seth Shezi. Perfectly poised to host CxC and other artistic endeavours, Mount Nelson—recently named Best Hotel in Africa and ranked No. 28 on the 2024 World’s 50 Best Hotels list—further establishes itself as Cape Town’s iconic pink backdrop for Africa’s sartorial visionaries as it celebrates 125 years of slow luxury travel.

Johannesburg-based multi-hyphenate designer RICH MNISI opened CxC presenting Nambu (River), a collection that offers both traditional and modern expressions of his Tsonga heritage, where florals hold deep-rooted significance in traditional textiles. Mnisi describes the collection as “a redefinition of how African heritage garments can be a form of luxury. Each garment serves as a medium for individuals to weave their own narratives, navigating the intricate layers of identity with every stitch and seam.”

CxC transcends borders, weaving Pan-African perspectives into new threads of the conversation. Member of the Business of Fashion 500, Lagos Space Programme by Adeju Thompson challenges Western misconceptions about contemporary and futuristic African fashion, translating the rich heritage of Nigeria’s Yoruba people into meticulously tailored garments and brass accessories. Thompson notes, “My work has a distinct point of view that is always being fine-tuned—the more I do it, the clearer it becomes. It’s not a shift but a constant continuation.”

For Lukhanyo Mdingi, CxC marks his first showcase outside Paris in years, and comes nearly a decade since founding his brand. With a vision to refocus the lens on African fashion, Mdingi’s cerebral approach and commitment to lineage-building contribute to what he describes as “a return that feels essential. With South Africa’s vibrant arts and culture community, returning through the platform of CxC holds profound significance. There’s a bigger picture to this.”

IAMISIGO by Bubu Ogisi stands as an artistic endeavour rooted in decolonising craft across the continent, with each textile being meticulously made by hand rather than machine produced. Her collection of bold beaded garments was both delicate and daring, embodying the technical mastery inherent in African craftsmanship. “We use fashion to tell different stories,” Ogisi shares. “Textiles are a medium to introduce people to new ways of dressing, seeing, and evolving.”

“I’m deeply interested in sustainability and the environmental impact of fashion, and these designers’ approaches bring a fresh and daring perspective to the narrative of responsible design,” says Jackie May, Founder and Editor of Twyg and curator of CxC. “Through their imaginative use of materials and techniques, they’re reimagining what it means to create clothing with intention, blending tradition with bold innovation to inspire a more thoughtful approach to fashion.”

The final day of CxC brought together the cognoscenti of African fashion under the century-old palm trees that line The Nellie’s iconic driveway, for a grand retrospective showcasing 11 of CxC’s alumni who have shown since the event’s 2022 inception. The front row enjoyed vibrant confections crafted by Mount Nelson’s Executive Sous Chef, Vicky Gurovich, each inspired by the collection of designers on show, which included VIVIERS Studio, CHULAAP, Wanda Lephoto, MANTSHO by Palesa Mokubung, Sindiso Khumalo, MmusoMaxwell, MAXHOSA AFRICA, Lukhanyo Mdingi, RICH MNISI, Lagos Space Programme by Adeju Thompson, and IAMISIGO by Bubu Ogisi. After this grand finale, a decadent celebration unfolded in the hotel’s lush gardens, commemorating 125 years of fashionable guests who have made Mount Nelson their urban oasis.

“Over these past few days, we’ve paid homage to African heritage through contemporary fashion — and honestly, what better way could there be to mark 125 years of Mount Nelson?” says Tiago Moraes Sarmento, Managing Director of Belmond Southern Africa. “Between our signature Afternoon Tea and the incredible fashion from these designers, we’ve had the privilege of witnessing the creation of new legacies right here on our grounds.”

Ushering in a new era of the time-honoured tradition, Mount Nelson unveiled a commemorative tea set by Sindiso Khumalo, a celebrated South African fashion designer known for her vibrant storytelling. Displayed throughout CxC, this tea set will soon become the signature Afternoon Tea set at Mount Nelson and will be available for purchase in 2025. Adding to the artistic celebration of Mount Nelson’s 125th year, a new exhibition titled “Against the Bias – Unravelling Material Codes” curated by RESERVOIR was launched in tandem with this year’s special edition of CxC. This exhibition explores the synergies between fashion and contemporary art, focusing on materiality, textiles, and the body, and underscores a shared commitment to spotlighting Africa’s creative voices (on display until February 2025). Through CxC and these artistic endeavors, Mount Nelson is solidifying its role as the joyful heart of Cape Town, celebrating a blend of tradition and contemporary creativity.